Exploring Zzyzx - A Quirky Stop on Your Road Trip from LA to Vegas
Driving along I-15 from Los Angeles to Las Vegas, you've probably spotted the curious ZZYZX exit sign just west of Baker, California, and wondered, What on earth is that? Zzyzx (pronounced "Zi-zex") is more than just a quirky name; it’s a hidden gem brimming with fascinating history, natural beauty, and oddball charm. Once a booming health spa run by a self-proclaimed “doctor”, it’s now a hub for desert studies and a unique stop within the Mojave National Preserve. Let’s dive into the story behind this offbeat oasis and why it’s worth adding to your road trip itinerary.
Exploring Zzyzx in Mojave National Preserve
Location
Zzyzx is located about 4.5 miles off I-15, just west of the small town of Baker, California. It sits within the boundaries of the Mojave National Preserve, offering a quiet, remote escape from the bustling highway. This desert stop is a perfect detour for stretching your legs, soaking in a bit of history, and enjoying the serene beauty of the Mojave before continuing on your journey to or from Las Vegas. Another great roadside attraction just a few miles up the road is the Calico Ghost Town.
Lake Tundae at Zzyzx in the Mojave Desert
Soda Lake salt flats and the Mojave Desert seen from Zzyzx
History
The history of Zzyzx begins thousands of years ago when the region was cooler and wetter. The area was once covered by Lake Mojave, a massive body of water that eventually evaporated, leaving behind Soda Lake’s salt flats. A natural spring system, Soda Springs, remained, providing water to Indigenous peoples, explorers, and even the U.S. Army.
Fast forward to 1944, when Curtis Springer—a charismatic radio evangelist and self-styled "doctor"—filed a mining claim here and established a health resort on the land. Springer’s Zzyzx Mineral Springs and Health Resort, which could accommodate up to 100 guests at a time, became a desert hotspot, featuring a castle, dining hall, pool house, and even a goat farm. Visitors flocked to the spa to enjoy its treatments, including dubious "medicinal" concoctions that could treat anything from baldness to cancer. Wondering why he called the it Zzyzx? It’s said that he wanted it to be “the last word in health”, and to ensure “it would be the last listing in any directory.”
However, Springer’s empire crumbled in the late 1960s under allegations of fraud and tax evasion. By the 1970s, the federal government reclaimed the land, leaving behind the remnants of this once-bustling wellness retreat.
Old Zzyzx Health Resort structures now used by the Desert Studies Center
Desert Studies Center
In 1976, California State University transformed Zzyzx into the Desert Studies Center, a research facility dedicated to studying the Mojave Desert’s ecosystem. The center isn’t open for public tours, but its presence ensures the preservation of the area’s natural and historical significance.
Trailhead for the Zzyzx Lake Tundae Loop Trail
Old swings and Zzyzx structures in 2024
Visiting Today
My last visit to Zzyzx was in 2018, and much more of the property was open to explore (see above pics). Zzyzx remains open to visitors eager to explore its quirky history and serene desert beauty today, but there is now a clearly marked boundary, prohibiting visitors to access the Desert Studies Center. Highlights visitors can enjoy today include:
Lake Tuendae: A picturesque man-made lake ideal for birdwatching and quiet reflection. There’s a short 0.25-mile loop trail around the lake, which offers lovely scenes of palm trees reflecting in the water with the vast Mojave Desert as a backdrop.
Historic Remnants: The grounds are filled with remnants of the resort’s past. In recent years, many of the historic structures are now on private property and can only be seen from distance. While the Desert Studies Center buildings are private and off-limits, you can still imagine the glamour and mystery of the resort’s heyday as you explore the grounds.
Birdwatching: Thanks to the bodies of water on the property, Zzyzx is a haven for bird species migrating through the area, making it a favorite spot for birders and nature lovers. Make sure to bring binoculars or a telephoto lens to see these feathered friends up-close without disturbing them.
Greater White-fronted Goose on Lake Tundae at Zzyzx
Birding at Zzyzx - American Coots & Red Head Ducks
Know Before You Go
• Getting There: The road to Zzyzx is mostly unpaved, but generally passable for most vehicles. Drive slowly and cautiously, as there are a few narrow spots with blind turns. The Desert tortoise, which is considered a “threatened” species, also resides in this region, so be extra careful along the road.
• Facilities: There are no restrooms, food, or services available at Zzyzx, so plan accordingly.
• Leave No Trace: Respect the area by staying on marked paths and not disturbing the Desert Studies Center or wildlife, ensuring to abide by the Leave No Trace Principles.
• Conditions: Make sure to check out the official Mojave National Preserve website for the most up-to-date road and park conditions prior to your visit.
Top 10 Roadside Attractions from LA to Vegas
California Route 66 Museum
Zzyzx Road
Wolrd’s Tallest Thermometer
Mojave Memorial Cross
Alien Fresh Jerky in Baker, CA
Goodsprings Pioneer Saloon
Lake Tundae at the old Zzyzx Health Resort
In Summary
Thanks so much for joining me this week inside Mojave National Preserve. For a virtual visit of Zzyzx, make sure to watch my Behind the Blog video located at the top of this post, or watch it on YouTube here. Until next week, I hope you find adventure and encouragement wherever you go.
Old fountain on Lake Tundae at Zzyzx
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About Me
I’m Dawn Marie, a travel and lifestyle blogger based out of Southern California. With in-depth articles, travel guides, and reviews on hotels & products, I seek to share my journeys to help you plan for your own. My adventures take me all over California, the western United States, and around the globe...and every Monday I post new content here, including a comprehensive blog post and YouTube video.
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